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Sunday, May 9, 2010

Ohara: Hosenin

Posted on 9:46 PM by Unknown
Ending up at Hosenin was purely an accident. I was wasting time on my way back from Jakkoin as Natsuki and Kayo wandered the grounds of Sanzenji. I climbed back up the hill and walked past the stone steps of the aforementioned temple. Down the stone path I came to the gate of Hosenin. I didn't plan to go in, and the entrance price at 800 yen was a bit steep. Its garden looked rather appealing and in the end I bought the ticket and took the ride.

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I don't have to tell you at this point that the garden itself is worth it. It is not large but it is extremely nice. I have astoundingly little information on Hosenin. I have read their literature and consulted their website, but I have nothing much to tell you about them. Looking at the garden, I would say that it is Zen. Zen, the Buddhism for warriors. It is odd to contemplate that many Americans immediately think of Zen when thinking of Buddhism, yet it was the religion for the license to kill murderous henchman of warlords. Who wrote poetry and had sex with boys of course. But I digress. Behold their gardens!

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I wandered into the building and felt like I was trespassing in someone's house. It looked much more like a home than a museum.

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This is the main view of the garden and its 700 year old pine tree. In America we travel for the weekend to Civil War battlegrounds and marvel at the ancient history. Around Kyoto, 700 years will get you a side mention in a free pamphlet. Entering this room, the steep asking price became reasonable as I realized that included in the 800 yen was a truncated tea ceremony. Macha it is.

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From outside of the garden, this gnarled pine appears as a leafy version of Mt. Fuji, an interesting illusion. It seems more dignified in its knotty, naked presentation.
I started feeling more and more foreign even though I was probably one of the few Kyoto residents in attendance. Maybe it was going by myself and that is just the feeling you get anywhere traveling by yourself. Which is what makes it great most of the time. Who doesn't want to be the outsider when you can choose to be?

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Somewhere during the course of tea, this dude showed up. By this dude, of course, I mean the man what runs the place. He explained that this temple was used more as a guest house and a living space than a temple and that it fell into great disrepair until 60 odd years ago. The garden wasn't tended, nor was the building.

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Since then it has been well maintained and was used in a JR add campaign 10 years ago. Something he had a little difficulty explaining was this:

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He had difficulty explaining the ceiling? You might be saying yourself. Well, yes. Because, you see, this ceiling used to be a floor. And not just any floor, it was the floor of Fushimi Castle where Torii Mototada held off Ishida Mitsunari giving Tokugawa Ieyasu time to rally forces for the battle of Sekigahara. It was a suicide mission, so, in the end, the samurai committed suicide. In that castle their dead bodies bled and rotted. Afterward the floorboards were taken out and used to construct buildings around Japan. Why? I am still curious as the head priest could only summon up, "If you can understand that Japanese heart...." I thought that a fairly weak explanation of a very interesting occurrence. That wouldn't be the first time I had thought that of similar explanations however. There must have been an actual decision to use blood stained floor boards to build the ceilings of a temple. In any case, that is a leg print that you are seeing. There are more striking images of faces, but I felt gruesome leaning over people drinking tea to take them. I should note that most other guests seemed surprised by this revelation, but it was written in the literature passed out at the gate. Maybe being alone, I was the only one who had stopped to read it.

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Another room in the house contained a Japanese "iori." I would just like to state for the record, that I would like one for Christmas.

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Oh! There is Mt. Fuji.

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An additional Zen garden stretches down to the south of the main garden.

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Posted in japan, kyoto, kyoto advice, photo | No comments

Writing Practice

Posted on 9:38 PM by Unknown
Teachers, here is a great worksheet maker for teaching kids to write in English.
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Ohara:Jakkoin

Posted on 8:19 PM by Unknown
I have become quite the promoter of Ohara as of late. There is no real cause other than it is quite accessible by bus from near my house. I will move on to another location soon. However, after my initial visit, and my hike I was talked into going back when company came to town. This was fine with me as I wanted to cover some temples which I hadn't visited initially.

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This time my goal was Jakkoin, a small temple to the west of Ohara that features prominently in the last part of The Tale of the Heike.

As I mentioned about my hike, if you do go to Ohara, go early in the morning. The farms are lovelier and the people seem more receptive. Everyone is up working in the morning.

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The picture above is looking back down the valley to Kyoto and the mountains rising to the left are the ones I hiked last week.

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Many houses in the mountains north of Kyoto tend to have this type of roof as they get heavy snows in the winter. Ohara still has lots of terraced agriculture. As lovely as I may claim it to be, it tends to stink like a farm. This is just a big square of fetid sludge.

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Jakkoin itself is actually a Buddhist nunnery built in the 594 by Prince Shotoku. It is a small complex but, as you can see, incredibly beautiful. This is the main entrance way.

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The main hall was burnt down by an arsonist in 1999. Some people are ridiculous. I had to wait to get this picture as an old man was posing in front of the gate and making his wife get shots of him in various configurations. He never offered to take her photo. Some people are ridiculous.

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Before the gate, just off the stone stairwell is a garden that has been in the same location for a thousand years. Marinate on that for a second. I don't know how many other people that day knew of its significance. This is where, according to The Tale of the Heike, emperor Go-Shirakawa sat and waited for Kenreimon'in and composed the following poem:

The cherry tree leans
Over the quiet depths
Of the pool
While fallen petals float
On the silent ripples

This is supposed to echo the Heike defeat at Dan no Ura and the bodies lost at sea, which included Kenreimon's son who was drowned in the arms of his grandmother. There is a little wooden structure and a bench next to the garden. I sat there and no one else came, although I could here some mounting the steps. Unfortunately a monk was running a leaf blower somewhere behind the bamboo. You would think a temple could use brooms or rakes. It dampened the scene.

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Nevertheless, this is that pool and the cherry tree's descendant remains.

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That is the reconstructed main hall. It is alright. The grounds are strikingly self contained. I mean small. I was yelled at in bad English by a priest for stepping on a board in my shoes when no sign was written anywhere. I responded, "You can say it in Japanese." As I really wasn't sure what he was getting at at first. That and the leaf blower darkened my mood slightly.

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This bell was a gift from Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

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This is the pine tree that was mentioned in The Tale of the Heike. It was badly damaged in the fire and later died. What a terrible waste. It is almost a supernatural belief to think that because the tree was alive and was also alive when famous events a thousand years ago took place that it being there provides you with any kind of connection to the age. Still.

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The bell that rings at the end of The Tale of the Heike was the bell of the Jakkoin.

The burned remnants of the Buddha from inside the old hall were on special display for 300 yen in a separate building. The remains were far more striking than any new statue. Photography was prohibited but the same old man manged to snap a shot while his wife was telling him, "The sign outside says 'no photography.'" Those rule breaking foreigners...Wait a second. I didn't take a picture, but it was a very touching display. Probably the most striking Buddha image I have seen. And living in Kyoto, I have seen my share.

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Ohara is known for its flowers. Look, some tulips.
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Posted in books, japan, kyoto, kyoto advice, photo | No comments

Saturday, May 8, 2010

UFC 113: Your Mother

Posted on 4:16 PM by Unknown

(super rad graphic from bloodyelbow.com)

I meant to write this yesterday. I already went and formed my opinions. Unfortunately I caught an all day migraine and resigned to the futon. So this will be brief as I am only writing it to check my pre-opinion with my post opinion.

I don't even have to make fun of Dana White's t-shirt as it was honestly bad-ass. However, he was soaked in oil, carrying a dead dolphin and laughing.

Yoshida vs. Guymon

I want to pull for Guymon as his honesty about his depression is admirable. Yoshida is way to tough and way to much. Judo takedowns, to sub in the 1st.

Hague vs. Beltran

I don't really know. Neither is that good. Hague has a huge size advantage. Hague by 2nd round TKO.

Grant vs. Hendricks

Hendricks is one of the best athletes in the sport. Grant had better subs but I think Hendricks wrestling overwhelms him. Hendricks my decision.

Davis vs. Goulet

Davis has great boxing. Goulet has minus beard. Davis by KO in the 1st.

Doerkson vs. Lawlor

Lawlor had another epic entrance. I don't see how Doerkson can win this. Lawlor beats him for 3rd round TKO.

Cote vs. Belcher

What makes this hard to call is Cote's long layoff with a knee injury. Cote is a way better fighter. Belcher is very big for the division and has good striking. Cote has a great chin and good, tight striking. I think Cote knocks out Belcher in the 3rd.

Slice vs. Mitrione

This fight is probably getting the most debate and it shouldn't because neither guy is ever going to be good. Sorry. Mitrione has way more size and I half to believe that playing in the NFL indicates he is the better athlete. Kimbo has shown he has no chin. I am going with Mitrione by 2nd round KO in this.

Stout vs. Stephens

Interesting fights for people who don't like ground work. Stephens is a hard striker, but Stout has crazy chin. Stout is the more disciplined striker. Stout by decision.

Koscheck vs. Daley

I am hyped about this fight. I have been a huge Daley fan since his Cage Rage days. I am also not against Koscheck, which is rare. Daley has powerful striking. Real deal striking, not withstanding the fact he was handled by Josh Thomson. Koscheck hits hard but he has to wind up on it like a baseball pitcher. If Koscheck fights dumb, which he usually does, Daley finds an opening and cracks him. If Koscheck has a gameplan and sticks to it. he shoots a double and stays on top of Daley. Daley has a strong bridge and natural toughness, but no real ground game. I would love to see a Daley KO but I think Koscheck is goaded into fighting smart for once and gets the decision on the ground.

Machida vs. Rua

I scored the last match a draw. It was epic. You don't need me to tell you that both of these guys are super talented and I am just excited to watch them fight. Rua had a great gameplan for fighting a Shotokan super-star last time. However, Machid is a smart fighter and now knows that game-plan. Is there an alternate plan that Rua can surprise him with? I doubt it. I think Machida will try to clinch and wrestle and be more physical with Shogun this time. Rua still has no real power in his punches but great kicks and subs. I think that Machida fights a lot more aggressively and gets the decision.

There, knocked it out in under 20 minutes. Off to get another migraine before the fights!
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Thursday, May 6, 2010

Eve of Destruction

Posted on 8:21 PM by Unknown

You might be thinking that I should be writing about the greatest tragedy to strike my home since rich people figured out it existed. You might be right. You probably are right. There are a few factors at play for me. First, as usual, there is nothing I can do about it. I can't even be there. Second, and I don't know how to phrase this without sounding like I am making psychic claims or being a pompous ass, but for me it had already happened. It was always going to happen. That doesn't mean that I came out of the Gulf covered in oil last August. Or that the Dolphins feeding out by the pier were already suffocated and dead. Or even that all of the fish markets were closed and everyone was out of work. I just mean that when you know that something is inevitable you are not surprised when it happens because you have always been thinking about it happening. A point that Nichols Nassim Taleb makes that I find appropriate is, and I am going by memory here, that it isn't about figuring the percentages of something happening, it is about how much damage they will inflict when they do happen. That is why I don't support oil and I don't support nuclear energy. I realize that it confers all the golden grace of walking the middle path to say that these things have their place. I would change that slightly and say "had." We should have moved beyond these outdated systems and on to something else by now. To me solar is the only real answer we have. Passive and active solar. Wind where we can. Tides if the technology gets there and geo-thermal in the limited places where it works.
As I said before, all of this is one giant externality. If the spill in the Gulf was internalized, who could afford gas? I don't think it is semantics to say that lost jobs and unrented hotel rooms are the price of gas. Not to mention an aesthetic Sand County Almanac argument that I would make that this has also, possibly, destroyed the uniqueness that I love about my home. Of course everyone was trying as hard as they could to destroy it in the first place anyway.
I have never understood the freight train nature of a society that compels everyone to want to stay on the straight path. I am completely happy to look at the situation and say "Sail boats and solar cars from here on out." But that is me. I would be happier that way anyway. What I really can't comprehend is the way some can look at this as just the cost of doing business and something that we can get past. Since I majored in this stuff in college, which was now a decade ago by the way, it was already known that oil would only get harder and harder to get to and harvest. That drilling would get more and more expensive until it cost more to get it out then could be made by selling it. It was also predicted by some, and I agreed, that that wouldn't stop the system from trying to perpetuate itself. That is what is going on here. The international oil community is the same thing as Japanese whalers. The purpose and the age have moved on but the system will seek to maintain. It will do so by claiming that because it existed it has to exist. This isn't a cheap tautology. It is costing all of us, whether that is monetary or psychological It will surely cost many physically as well.
Our current President and political structure has no inclination, disposition or will to discuss these issues in any real way. They will go by to get by and insist that what has been must be. As I said before, as long as the people in charge only have to buy tickets to the Bahamas instead of Destin, the problem is just one of management. I will never have that luxury as you can't really change the directions home.


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Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Ohara to Hieizan Hike

Posted on 6:05 AM by Unknown
I have made three trips to Ohara within two weeks. Nothing in particular happened except for realizing that the bus leaves from near my house (Kyoto #16 or #17) and only takes about 30 minutes.

I set out on the first bus of the morning that leaves Demachiyanagi at 6:59 and gets to the Ohara bus terminal at 7:30. I had meant to get off at the Family Mart and get some food, but realized I only had 200 yen in coins and a 5,000 yen note in my wallet. I rode to the end and got off last so I could ask the bus driver what I should do. "Well, I can't make change so just put in the coins you have." "I'm so sorry." "Don't worry about it."

So I backtracked south to the Family Mart. Ohara is much better in the early morning with people tending to their fields and old men willing to offer a hearty "Ohayo." To my surprise the Family Mart was packed, not with hikers as I had feared, but with drivers. Families with chubby wives and disobedient children lined up for the bathrooms while the husbands bought cigarettes and sandwiches and had greasy hair and leather jackets. While I enjoy driving places I resent people who get to places by cars while I am hiking. I am an elitist. Maybe I am a purist. Maybe I am a separatist. What does it portend when I am walking the road to Obama?

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There are several trails leading to the east out of Ohara. I wanted to take the one that lead up around Otonashi Falls, where I had gone the week previously. The first thing I noticed is that the flowers were gone.

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At 8 in the morning, my trip to the Family Mart and back having cost me 3o minutes or so, there are few people around. Some from the area setting up their shops, some from the first bus getting an early start although the temple don't open until later. The morning was cool and I quickly passed Otonashi Falls and all signs of people in about 20 minutes. From there the going got a little rough. It had been raining earlier in the week and the ground around the stream was pretty mushy. For several reasons, not the least of which being a giant hole in my hiking boot, I have been hiking in running shoes lately. It is a strategic decision, but it didn't serve me well for the first part of this hike. The trail is poorly marked and often not a trail but a hunch as to which way looks more passable. There is a stream, and following it will get you there, but everything was very wet and sloshy. I ended up crawling under fallen trees and sliding in a controlled fall down an embankment. I also lost my Bama ball cap. I will think of it as an offering to the mountain. After about 30-45 minutes the trail gets steeper and slightly easier to recognize. However I would say that this is not a hike to do if you tend to get panicky about being lost in the woods or have bad instincts about which way to go. I had a compass and a good map and have a moderate idea about what I am doing. It was still a little daunting and slightly bear-tastic. I didn't have a bell so I clapped periodically. The stream separates further up the mountain. Both branches look like trails, but there are some red markers to the right. Believe them. From here it is a straight up hike up the mountain. It is rather steep, but pleasant and the views back down to Ohara are incredible. When you finally do reach the top of this mountain called Daio on the map and Daibi on the sign, you are stricken by the fact that you are looking down at Lake Biwa. I wasn't carrying my camera, but rather Natsuki's tiny, water-proof, death-proof one. I didn't trust it to take in scenery and wasn't sure with how it operates so I took this.

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Fairly insufficient. Here the trail devides north and south. North is not on the map. South is and was the way I was headed. Soon the trail parallels an unpaved country road. It also gets vague again. It tells you to vear into the woods and then leads you back onto the road. I don't mind walking a country road in the mountains so if the trail is the road tell me to take it. But out of fear of losing the trail I kept hopping back into the woods and then out of them again. Small creatures in the underbrush hopped as well. My advice to future travelers is: Just walk on the damned road. When the trail starts up another incline it is obvious. At this junction I met an old man, the first person I had seen in a few hours. He told me that both the road and the trail go to Hieizan. "The road is quicker..." He offered. "I'll take the trail." I said, and he smiled in approval. The woods were great, not too thick but not too thin. A lot of tall tress with slight underbrush. To the left is Biwako to the right is Ohara. The views aren't panoramic but the bits that you can sneak through the forest are tantalizing. It was in this area that I found fresh inoshishi tracks.

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If you are thinking, "Cute, a wild pig." Then you are neither from the south or rural Japan. These things are little death tanks with a yearning to yank out leg arteries. Stay away. I started scouting for trees to scurry up.

After passing the summit of Mt. Ono, the trail descends to Ogitake. I believe that is the correct reading. You will find that often on trails in Japan, the readings on signs and maps disagree. This is where the trail merges with the larger Kyoto Ishyu Trail, which is better marked and maintained. The trail that leaves from in front of the Family Mart also intersects here. I sat down and ate a smushed Tuna sandwich that I knew would be smushed by the time I ate it.Somewhere on this part of the mountain the trail separates strangely. One branch goes off towards the Shigaken side, one continues up to mount Mizuii. Strangely the two branches run alongside each other for a bit and I played it to safe and went off to the right on a marked trail that isn't on the map and doesn't go where I needed it to go. Be careful. Just because it has red markers, doesn't mean it is the real trail. At this section, the real trail looks like a well maintained trail. Stick to that.

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And then there was the summit of Mizuii, which is rather Blair Witchy and is strewn with small stones. A large crow came screeching around the clearing. Through the woods you can look back at the Ohara valley. I had run out of Ulon-cha and was on to water at this point.

Pat II : Updated

Paul Theroux, one of my absolute favorites, describes a kayaking trip he took by saying "I wanted to go to my view." That was very much in my mind on this trip. As anyone who has been to Kyoto knows, part of the beauty of the city are the mountains that protect it. Hiezan lies in the northwest corner which, according to Chinese fung-shui is the most dangerous quadrant. Emperor Kammu, when plotting the city in the 700s felt the need to have this secured. He was fortunate in that Hiezan was already there and already had a temple atop it. The interesting thing about going to my view was that my view changed. From the various peaks you can see the back side of Hiezan. Yamazakura, still hanging on, stand out from the verdant green of spring. These views come and go as one marches along from Mizui-Yama to Yokotaka-Yama. Unfortunately the road to Hiezan also becomes a presence. As I have already established, I am an elitist about these things. I think there should be no road to Koya-san and I don't like the idea of a road to Hiezan. Maybe I can live with the cable car, but I honestly will aruge that some places shouldn't be easy to get to. Getting to them is most of the meaning. I truly have a hard time understanding what Koy-san means to people who haven't walked there. I would apply the same standard here. That being said, the road wasn't so noisy on a holiday Saturday morning.

The top of Yokota feels dead, it is sparse and brown. It looks a but like South Texas on top of a small hill. From here the trail drops of steeply and on is fortunate that the gnarled roots form a makeshift stairway. It was in this area that I started to encounter other people. At the bottom of the hill there is the intersection of several trails and and the road. At this point some Ojizo-san protect the traveler.


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Sadly, the trail began to parrellel the road. The sakura were still nice however.

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Here things get a little odd, as civiliztion picks up the trail becomes harder to discern. It dumps you out in parking lots and diverts under roads and through temple grounds. Here is, I believe, part of Enryaku-ji. You can make a guess as to which building because I have found that I can do hiking or temple viewing, but I can't make the two mesh. I just want to get through the temple and back to the trail. It isn't so much the temple as that I emerge sweaty and muddy into a bunch of men in polo shirts and women in high-heels and I feel like I am a fish jumped into someone's canoe. Disconcerting.

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From here the trail gets really odd and I got lost for about 30 mintues. This seems strange as this is the most well traveled are I passed through. Exactly. I choose the path that looked like a trail and ended up at a dead end in the woods, when I should have taken the main toursit path towards the cable car. I encoutnered other hikers staring at signs and turning their maps murmuring, "Yayakoshi." While their spouses nodded knowingly. Fortunately I had only myself to apoligize to and I continued on the tourist path with its large stone staircases.

It was in following this path that I ran across Jodo-in. This I almost walked past in my haste, but I know a little bit about it and was drawn back by its purpose and very real beauty.

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If anything it was its accesiabiltiy that made me back away and almost not enter. It is almost too open. After considering I passed through the wooden gate to the simple garden. The Jodo-in houses the grave of Saicho (Dengyo Daishi), the founder of Enryakuji. The mnks who tend his grave pledge to not leave the mountain for a period of twelve years. Maybe that can make you understand why I feel a toll road cheapens the place a bit.

From here the trail and the unpaved tourist road towardsw the cable car are the same path. There is one fork in the road where one can go left to Shiga or right to Kyoto. To the right the trees clear out and there is amazing views of Kyoto with sakura still present.

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It really is almost unbearably lovely and one wonders if it looked like this in 1571 when Nobunaga unleashed his armied on the monks and slaughtered a reported 25,000 and burned everything down. There are some sections of the woods that have the damp, heavy feel of the killing fields of the American Civil War. Mechanicsville comes to mind.

Just past these impressive views is an odd ghost town of a ski complex that looks like something out of Scooby-Doo. The mountain would be better without and I would be better with photographs. Just imagine an abandoned arcade. The grassy slope had several people lounging on it reading books, so it can't be all bad.

From here the trail continues down the main path to the cable car station.

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If anyone knows what the kanji proceeding "Shirakawa" are, please inform me. I thought that maybe it meant that one couldn't drink the water, but now I think not. The cable car is the usual Japanese conglomeration of stinky toilets and vending machines. A man with a tracheotomy tried to figure out how to use the 100 yen viewfinder. The trail diverts into new trail and old trail. I was just looking to stick with it until marker 69 where two other trails diverted off down Shirakawa to Shugakuin. From this juncture there is one last view of the city.

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From marker 69 there is a great moment where you can here the roar of water from a fall in Shirakawa. The trail down is standard Japanese mountain trail. You end up in a very narrow and steep gully, looking for snakes in your hand holds. The trail is so steep that sometimes you can look up out of the gull and realize you are gazing down at the city. Can you picture what I mean? Another great aspect is that in some stretches you are looking down on Daimonji, which is an odd experience and feels almost unsettling when you realize that that is what you are looking at. It is about a two hour hike down this steep fern-gully. Unfortunately the back of Shugakuin is secured by concrete and barbed wire, so the hike doesn't feel as natural as it could. A further issue was a huge group coming up the mountain. There were at least 30 people in the party. If you hike in Japan, you know what this means; I had to give a genki "Konnichiwa" to every last member. That was more tiring than the decent. The trail ends up in a quiet neghborhood with a park next to the river. The road runs steeply downhill towards Kitayama and the train station. I found this bumbersticker that may only be humorous to me.

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I had planned on walking the river back to my house, but my foot was hurting and I was out of water so I got on the train and set next to an attractive lady without thinking about how I smelled. It is a 200 yen ride back to Demachiyanagi. Of course you can do this hike in revere and take the bus back from Ohara. I think I might try going straight over the mountain and out the back to Sakamoto this weekened.
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